INTRODUCTION
Okay, I ll warn you right now, this has got to be the largest FAQ in Cyberpaintball history.
(2032 words according to my spell checker.) It s just that I have a lot to tell you. Most of the information is taken from my articles. Most of which were written from personal experience (especially the FAQ about how to retreat). Anyway, don t read it now, down load it and spend
some time going through it.
# 1 - WHAT SHOULD I DO BEFORE EVERY GAME?
1. Make sure your paintgun is loaded, the CO2 is on and it's cocked and
ready to fire.
2. Check your goggles and make sure the strap is secure on the frames and
check to ensure the lenses are properly in place. Make sure they re clean.
3. Make sure you have your squeegee.
4. Check to see of your tubes or bulk loaders are topped up.
5. When you get out to the flag station, remember to take your barrel plug
out.
# 2 - WHAT IS TARGET FIXATION OR TUNNEL VISION AND WHY IS IT TO BE
AVOIDED?
Do not get target fixation. This is best described as forgetting
everyone else on the field, except the player you have in your sights. Keep
your head up and look around. This includes looking behind you, from time to
time.
# 3 - COVER AND CONCEALMENT, THEY'RE THE SAME THINGS, AREN'T THEY?
No they are not the same thing. Think of it this way.
Cover: it will stop a paintball, but will not hide you. A pane of glass,
for instance.
Concealment: it will allow you to hide, but may not stop a paintball. A
wall of paper is a good example.
Most times, you'll get both. Don't rely on it, one hundred percent of
the time. Just remember, the bush may hide you, but it might not stop a
paintball.
# 4 - WHAT S THE BEST WAY TO MOVE (WHEN I M NOT BEING SHOT AT)?
Unless the other team knows where you are (indicated by the fact that
they're shooting at you) take your time. The faster you move, the more noise
you're going to make. If you have the time, take it. You can have speed, or
silence, but not both. You'll know when to use one or the other. See also # 12.
# 5 - WHAT S THE BEST WAY TO MOVE (WHEN I AM BEING SHOT AT)?
The idea is to move as fast as possible, in short bursts, to prevent your
opponent from drawing a bead on you. As a rule of thumb, it takes about three
seconds for a person to recognize, acquire, sight in and shoot at a target that
pops up unexpectedly. You don't want to give them three seconds. You also
don't want to "telegraph" your movement. When you're ready to go, then GO!
Don't try a "head fake", or any fancy stuff like that. You're robbing yourself
of your three second advantage.
# 6 - IS THERE A PROPER WAY TO RETREAT?
RETREAT ?!?!?
NOT! Let's try the word WITHDRAWAL. The difference is that a retreat is an every- player-for-themselves scenario. A withdrawal is simply an advance, in the opposite direction. (No, that's not a joke, smarty pants.) When you have to get out, you should still be moving from cover to cover, returning fire and all the stuff you do when you're attacking in the forward
direction.
Turning and running is for cowards and the unskilled. Besides, when all else fails, remember Durty Dan's Law of Paintball
# 2: "Never give up, never say die, fight to the end, and take as many of the bastards with you, when you go!"
# 7 - WHAT ARE THE SIMPLEST TEAM OFFENSIVE TACTICS?
Okay, these are really simple. They are, however, as effective as they
are simplistic.
1. First, you should designate a small group of players to act as a flanking
party. These players will automatically break off and flank the opposition
when you encounter them. If you designate specific players to do this before
the game, you don't have worry about confusion on who is going to go DURING the
game. I remember being up front and saying "A couple of you flank around."
When I turned around, they were ALL gone flanking! The Flanking party should
stay to the back, so they don't get hit during initial contact.
2. It's also wise to stay in one group. If you break up into smaller
groups, the opposition will eliminate them quickly, if they were smart enough
to stay in a group.
3. The best way to win is to avoid the opposition altogether. It's fun to
shoot your friends, but if you want to win, you'll want as many people as you
can get into the flag station.
4. When you get to the flag station, send your flanking party around to the
other side to divert attention. Once the defenders start moving and advancing
on the flankers, you rush in and shoot a few butts. This only works if the
defenders don't see the main body.
# 8 - WHAT ARE THE SIMPLEST TEAM DEFENSIVE TACTICS?
Defenders are only there to slow down the opposition. By definition,
they are DEFENDING, not stopping. The longer you can slow down the opposition,
the better it will be for your attackers.
You should only have a few defenders, and those who will not break and
run at the first sign of trouble. Incidentally, the most tenacious defenders
I've ever gone up against have been women. I don't know why, but they're more
determined than their male team mates. (That doesn't mean you should leave the
ladies on defence all day, guys.)
# 9 - WHAT ARE SOME OF THE THINGS WE SHOULD BE DOING WHEN WE HAVE THE
OPPOSITION S FLAG?
Everyone makes the same mistake. You grab the flag and you take off,
leaving the opponent's flag station empty. What happens if they have YOUR flag
and they're halfway back. They're going to hang the flag while you're still
huffin' and puffin' down the trail. Leave a few players back to give the
opposition a little surprise, and give you a little more time to get to your
flag station.
When you get to your flag station, make sure it's clear, the bad guys may
have read this too.
Don't let the guy who grabs the flag run off half cocked. Make sure
there are a few players in front of him and a few players behind. Most times
the opposition doesn't realize you have their flag until you pass them. Now
they're behind you, which is why you have a few players taking up the rear.
No matter what:
NEVER LEAVE THE OPPOSITION S FLAG STATION UNATTENDED.
# 10 - WHAT ARE SOME OF THE THINGS WE SHOULD BE DOING IF THE OPPOSITION
HAS OUR FLAG?
Where are they going to go with your flag? That's right, THEIR flag
station. Don't try to second guess which route they're going to take back.
Beat feet to their flag station and wait for them there. They usually come
running in, thinking (and acting) like they already won. Then, you let them
have it!
# 11 - IN A WALK-ON SITUATION, HOW CAN YOU EASILY ASSESS THE APTITUDE OF A
POTENTIAL OPPONENTS/TEAM MATES, BEFORE THE GAMES START?
Here s Durty Dan s Basic Lesson of Separating the Badasses from the
Smartasses
(This is where tournament players have the advantage. You can't play in
the tournament circuit and expect not to know what you're going to be up
against. Sizing up your opposition is as simple as reading the team stats
(wins, losses, placings, amateur/pro).
However, we're not all tournament players.
1. CLOTHING
Some people suggest you look for faded cammies and well worn clothing.
Not!
Players are buying new cammies all the time. Look for old patches on new
cammies. Most time when teams get patches made, they get a limited number, by
the time their cammies wear out, they've traded all their extra patches and
have to take the ones off their old set of cammies and put them on their new
set. Still, this is not a reliable indication.
The best way is to check out their footwear. Footwear is something that
is personal. Once you break in a pair of boots or runners, you're hard pressed
to throw them away until they're falling apart. There's something sentimental
and downright comfortable about a good old pair of broken in runners or boots.
They may have new cammies, but their boots may just tell you how long they've
been playing.
Don't automatically think that if a player is wearing those "tournament
jammies" that he's a pro. He could be one a TWiBs (tournament wanna be), and
buying things the "pros use".
2. EQUIPMENT
Again, most people will tell you to look at their harnesses for wear and
paint stains. This is good, but limited.
Check out their loader pots in their harness. If you've been playing for
a while, you'll eventually lose one or two loaders. Look for a mix of old AND
new loaders. Players may get new hoppers for their paintguns, but a loader can
be used for almost any hopper on any paintgun. They'll keep the loaders, no
matter how many new hoppers they have.
3. ATTITUDE
Are they bragging about past glories? Are they regaling their friends
with amazing tales of daring do? Look for the players who are NOT talking
paintball. They guys and gals who are discussing last night's TV movie or what
happened at the office/job sight since they last spoke are the ones to watch
out for. They don't need to impress anyone, they are secure enough in their
playing abilities not to have to resort to "psyching-out" the opposition.
4. ACTIONS
How long does it take them to get ready? The experienced players seem to
sit down, unpack, kit-up and sit to wait for everyone else to get ready.
Also, experienced players will have everything they need for the day.
They won't be bothering buddies for bug spray, paper towels, tools or other
things.
5. SAFETY
Do they practice safety? Again, experienced players will be safe, as a
matter of course. You'll also notice that experienced players will also
"prompt" other players to be safe, as well. You'll hear experienced players
say things like, "You forgot your barrel plug." or "Goggles on."
6. THE PAINT PER GAME LOAD
How much paint are they carrying on them? Are they loaded for bear? Do
they have an 800 round hopper on their paintgun? If they're carrying all that
paint for a routine game of capture the flag, they're intending to use it.
This is NOT an indication of skill, by any means. On the recreational level,
it is a definite indication of LACK of skill. You may have to shoot a lot of
paint at the Masters in the finals, but not at Trippsan Falls Paintball Field
in a pick-up game.
BEWARE the player who is only carrying a couple of hundred rounds on
them. They don't NEED a whole lot of paint to take a player out, so they don't
bring it.
7. HANDLING THEIR EQUIPMENT
How familiar are they with their equipment? Are they fumbling about?
Are they having problems with little things (finding the safety on their
paintgun, unsure of how to put something together, fumbling with loaders or
harnesses)? Or do they look like they could load, shoot and maybe even play
with their eyes closed?
8. WHAT NOT TO LOOK AT
Their paintgun is not a good indicator. It could be rented, borrowed or
purchased second hand. A new paintgun does not indicate a newer player any
more than an old paintgun indicates an experienced player.
9. WHO TO FEAR THE MOST
There is one player to avoid at ALL costs: The player who is NOT wearing
camouflage, is playing with twelve grams and a pump paintgun (or worse a
stockgun) and ten round tubes. This, despite the fact that everyone else is
carrying semis. If this same player was ready 30 minutes before everyone else,
and if the player just mentions once that they've played with oil based paint,
years ago, when they first started playing -- pray you're on their side.
# 12 - HOW DO I MOVE QUICKLY AND STILL NOT MAKE A LOT OF NOISE?
I have little respect for players who stomp around in the woods, like a
moose in rutting season, or players who make more noise than a travelling
mariachi band. There are ways to reduce your personal noise signature.
1. FOOTWEAR
Soft soled foot wear, like running shoes, are ideal for paintball.
"Army" boots may look cool, but they make too much noise. Soft soled footwear,
with proper ankle support, have a natural sound absorbtion property that hard
soled combat boots do not.
2. SHAKE, RATTLE AND ROLL
Half filled loaders in your harness rattle unmercifully. There is a way
around this. Your loader tube's capacity should be half of your paintgun's
hopper capacity. You see if you have a 100 round hopper and 100 round tubes,
you're going to have to run the hopper dry before you can reload. Why? It's
simple, if you don't, you're going to have extra paint left in the tube.
THAT'S what is going to rattle. I try to stick to loaders which are half the
capacity of the hopper. That way, you completely empty the tube.
Padding the tops of your bulk tubes also helps. You can buy precut foam
inserts, however with some thin, closed cell foam, a pair of scissors and some
double sided carpet tape, you can make your own.
Putting a neoprene cover on your hopper will reduce the sound of
paintballs rattling around. Also, the thicker the hopper walls are, the less
noise rattle paintballs will make.
However, if you play stock, you don't have to worry about that, do you?
3. HAVE A FIT
Harnesses, holsters and other things should be snug, but not restrictive.
Try to keep any pouches, in which you intend to keep paint, away from your
legs, especially the fronts of your legs. When you walk and run, if there are
pouches near your legs, they going to move (and subsequently rattle).
If you just have a belt, with some pouches on it (like I do), make sure
the belt loops on the pouches are closer to the centre of the pouch. If the
loops are near the top, the pouch will have a tendency to flap around more than
if the loops were closer to the centre of the pouch. You can either buy new
pouches, or re-sew the loops of your existing pouches into the proper position.
The belt should be as wide as the loops on the pouches will allow. Any extra
space will alow the pouches to move more.
4. SOFT CLOTHING
Coarse fabrics, like brand new cammies, will make a lot of noise when you
brush against branches and foliage. Use a fabric softener when you wash your
cammies, or what ever you play in. Try to stay away from rough feeling
fabrics, I find cotton, especially the type found in sweat shirts, is the most
quiet.
5. MOVING
Stick to paths and uncluttered surfaces if you have to move quickly. The
faster you move, the more noise you're going to make. You can't have it both
ways. If you have time, take it.
# 13 - WHAT ARE SOME OF THE BETTER METHODS I CAN USE TO MAKE MY GAME
BETTER?
First, let me share the basic premise of my revelation with you. I have found that the only way to get better, in any sport, is to play against someone better than you are at that particular sport.
Playing with more experienced players offers more of a challenge. We, as a species, seem to perform better when faced with a challenge. (For the most part.) When you play with players who have comparable skill levels, that challenge is diminished.
Therefore, if you want your game to improve, you must put yourself at a disadvantage. When at a disadvantage with your peer group, you must try harder, because that disadvantage creates a challenge.
So how do you give yourself a disadvantage, apart from tethering yourself to a tree, wearing an anvil or painting your goggle lenses black? There are several ways.
In the past two years, I've been playing with a semi. The paintgun is accurate and has greater range, at the same velocity, than other semis. I've been playing at the same technological level as everyone else. Where's the challenge?
1. BECOME TECHNOLOGICALLY DISADVANTAGED
a. Last year, I made an "old fashioned" stick feeder for my semi. It
holds twenty-three paintballs, and it must be loaded with ten shot tubes.
There's the first way to Technologically Disadvantage (TD) yourself. Limit
your paint expenditure (by carrying less paint) or limit the amount of paint
you can put into your paintgun. This way, you'll make every shot count, and
you'll HAVE to manoeuvre to get a good shot.
b. The second way to TD yourself, is to play with a pump paintgun.
Although I love my semi, I've been using it with less frequency. Armed with my
trusty pump action marker, I routinely go up against players armed with semis.
For further challenges, I mount a stick feed on it and run it on 12 grams. I
also use my Sheridan based stock class marker when playing against semis.
c. There's the third way, limit your power source. Use 12 grams
instead of constant air.
2. CHANGE YOUR STYLE
a. Another way to improve your game is to do things you normally
wouldn't do. I'm not a "lone wolf" player. I prefer to work as a back-up or a
flanker, with another player. When the opportunity arises, I try to strike out
on my own and do a little stalking. I'm not as good as I want to be (I'm like
a fish out of water) but I'm getting better at it. That's the main objective.
b. Purposely going up against multiple opponents, when you're alone (or
by yourself) helps a lot, too. The first few encounters will be VERY one
sided, but after a while, you'll get better at it.
HOWEVER . . .
you can read a million tactics articles. You can do thousands of
drills. You can sit around and discuss tactics until you're blue in the face.
You'll NEVER get better.
There is only one way to get better at your game than you are now. This
is true, and applies to everyone, from the first-time player to the first place
tournament team. You have to play. You have to play a lot.
Look at other sports. You can do lay-ups, one-on-one drills, slam your
body into a padded upright, do kata, slap pucks into the net. These ARE
essential, but they do not replace actual playing.
Why? A drill is a structured scenario. It is designed to put you in a
position where the situation is ideal to the purpose of the drill. It is
predictable and regimented. Actual play is not. It is the challenge of the
natural randomness of actual play that makes improvements. That's why
professional sports teams run "scrimmages". Teams divide and play against
themselves. This is good, but it still does not take the place of actual play.
Even Bob Long, the leading advocate of team drills, will tell you that
you HAVE to play. Think about it. If all you did was do your forms,
shadow-box, and hit the speed bag, how well do you think you'd do when you got
toe-to-toe with an opponent? You'd be kissing canvas, that's how you'd do.
Recreational or tournament player, if you want to improve you game, you
have to PLAY it. Play as much as your schedule and your budget will allow.
There is no substitution.
# 14 - HOW IN THE HELL AM I SUPPOSED TO REMEMBER ALL OF THIS !!!!
I know, there is a lot of stuff to remember, and everyone has an opinion. The
game is very complex, and it takes time to master the intricacies. However,
there are ten tips that will help you with your first game.
Here are ten simple tips entitled:
DURTY DAN S KWIK-AND-DURTY TOP TEN TIP LIST
(First say it ten times fast, without a mistake. If you still don t need
medical attention to untie your tongue, read on.)
TIP # 1
Follow all safety rules. Do not fire your paintgun in camp, for ANY
REASON. Do not remove your goggles in the playing area for ANY REASON.
TIP # 2
Don't stay in one place too long. The key to the game is movement. Try
to plan your next move, before you actually move. However, if you do decide to
lay in ambush for someone, keep absolutely still. Movement will defeat the
best camouflage.
TIP # 3
Don't stand behind someone when they're being shot at. There's a good
chance you're going to be hit with the paintballs that missed the player you're
standing behind.
TIP # 4
Don't ever lie down. Crouch or kneel, otherwise it takes too long for
you to get back up again. I find "going to ground" is a habit most associated
with people who have had military training. Sometimes you have to crawl, but
for the most part, stay on your feet.
TIP # 5
Don't forget to check over your shoulder.
TIP # 6
Spend some time on the target range. Learn to and operate the paintgun
you're going to operate.
TIP # 7
If possible, play with someone who is patient, who will point out what
you did right, and who will offer constructive criticism when you do something
wrong.
TIP # 8
When defending the flag, you should be away from the flag, so when you
are pressured by the opposition, you have some room to move back, to prevent
from being out-flanked. You should also not be disappointed if the opposition
does get the flag. If you've managed to hold them off for even a couple of
minutes, you've done your job. I might point out that you are a flag DEFENDER,
not a flag KEEPER. No one ever said you had to keep the flag, just defend it.
TIP # 9
Don't be afraid to surrender. If you are vastly outnumbered, you've been
cornered, or you're in any no-win situation -- its okay to give up. Besides,
it's painless!
TIP # 10
Don't get discouraged. Every paintball player in the world, no matter
how good they are, started out as newbies. They just forget it, sometimes.
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